Travis Mooney-Evans finds a non-alcoholic beer that’s really a craft beer
January and February are popular months for resetting drinking habits: January is often chosen for primacy, and February for brevity. But it’s a truth universally acknowledged that, while there are many delicious beverages out in the alcohol-free world, most (if not all) alcohol-free wine is terrible. And ever since Costco stopped carrying it, American ex-pats can’t even reach for a bottle of Martinelli’s sparkling apple cider.
Coverage throughout the drinks media has headlines like: Why is it so Hard to Find Good Non-Alcoholic Wine, Most Zero-Proof Wine is Terrible, and a household favorite, Why is Non-Alcoholic Wine Still so Dreadful? And, while there are legitimate concerns over how wine is produced, the real reason seems to be that most winemakers aren’t particularly interested in making wine without the alcohol.
Luckily, that’s not the case in the world of low and no alcohol beer. Quality levels have skyrocketed over the last decade, and the UK is now home to a number of brewers who are dedicated to beer under 0.5% ABV. By contrast, a ripe banana can have up to 0.4%, bread can peak to 1.2%, and both soy sauce and vinegar can reach 2% ABV.
Unique amongst English breweries, Nirvana Brewing is the first dedicated low/no alcohol brewery in the country. Founded in East London in 2017, their line of beer includes fine-tuned German styles, as well as English varieties developed in-house. And the difference between Nirvana and the reluctant low/no winemakers is that not only do they want to make non-alcoholic beer, they’re passionate about it.
“When we started there wasn’t really any competition, and since we didn’t come from a typical brewing background we came in with no pre-conceived notions about how things should be done,” said Becky Taylor-Kean, Nirvana’s Founder. “We weren’t following anyone, and the big difference is that we had our own brewery, our own recipes, and our own beer, all of which was done in-house.”
A key difference, and one of the reasons Nivana’s beer is so good compared to those that came before, is the way that it’s made. Mainstream low and no alcohol beers are made by removing the alcohol from an alcoholic beer. This typically results in a beer that is overly sweet, what my childhood friend’s father referred to as “barley soda.” Nivana’s beers are brewed from scratch to be alcohol-free, and the end product is part of the design from the start.
“The big difference is that we’re designing non-alcoholic beer from the ground up,” said James Rabagliati, Nirvana’s Brewmaster. “Our sole focus is the actual product, rather than making a normal beer and diminishing it. We have to be very careful about the ingredients and think about it from a different point of view.”
Driving the business behind low and no alcohol options is the move of many people – especially younger people – to reduce alcohol in their daily life. This includes a move towards teetotal lifestyles, as well as reduction techniques like zebra striping, where drinkers alternate alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.
“Inclusivity is important,” said Taylor-Kean. “When there are good options, it’s not a shameful thing to have a non-alcoholic beer – my dad didn’t have to hide the bottle. And it’s an option both for non-drinkers and drinkers. Everyone can be a part of the group, especially if the beer tastes good, regardless of the alcohol content.”
Some customers are surprised that non-alcoholic beer costs nearly as much as normal beer, but they shouldn’t expect an artisanal product at the same price as own-brand cola.
“It costs that much to make because it’s a craft beer, that’s made like a craft beer,” said Taylor-Kean. “But if the product tastes good – so you’re not resentful to be the odd one out in the pub – then saving money isn’t the primary concern. And, really, making non-alcoholic craft beer is more expensive than a typical beer with alcohol.”
You can find Nirvana Brewery beer on tap at a number of locations, including The Understudy Bar at the National Theatre, the Bird House in Herne Hill, and Peach Pubs which are mostly throughout the Home Counties.
Bottles and cans are available through many off-licenses, including the CoOp throughout London, Amazon, Ocado, and Amathus. They are also available direct from the brewery on https://nirvanabrewery.com/collections/beers
Nirvana Brewery is growing rapidly, expanding into retail partnerships, and available on tap at a number of pubs. They’ve run a series of funding rounds before, and are currently looking for additional investment. Interested parties can reach out for more information by emailing investment@nirvanabrewery.com.
Beer Name: Nirvana Best
Beer Style: Best Bitter (English Amber Ale)
Alcohol: 0.5%
Nirvana Best is a proper alcohol-free bitter, which is an unusual find. Deep amber color with rich malt flavor. Biscuity, with a solid mouthfeel that is very convincing. Bittered with English Goldings which add earthy and floral notes. If you only drink one Nirvana beer, this is the one to try. Vegan and gluten free. Highly Recommended.
Beer Name: Nirvana Chocolate Milk Stout
Beer Style: Milk Stout
Alcohol: 0.5%
A very fun beer, which shows how far out in left field alcohol-free beers can go. Sweet, with cacao nibs giving chocolate flavor throughout. Dark brown to black, and richly creamy brought on by judicious use of lactose. Not a beer you’ll drink all session (then again, that applies to all milk stouts), but a wonderful example of what’s possible. Suitable for vegetarians but not vegan due to use of lactose. Recommended.
Beer Name: Nirvana Pils
Beer Style: Pilsner
Alcohol: 0.5%
A regular on tap at The Understudy Bar at the National Theatre, and there’s a reason why. This beer is refreshing, but displays some complexity. Crisp and full-bodied, with Light coloring, and good carbonation. Flavors continue with citrus notes and good finish due to bready pilsner malt. If you have only one Nirvana beer on tap, this is the one to get. Also excellent in can. Vegan and gluten free. Highly Recommended.
Beer Name: Nirvana Helles
Beer Style: Nirvana Helles
Alcohol: 0.3%
Nirvana’s answer to Bavaria’s most common style of beer. Golden color, with fine natural carbonation. Roasty and clean body with appropriate hop bitterness. Refreshing throughout the glass, with a slight drop off at the finish. Vegan. Recommended.
Beer Name: Nirvana IPA
Beer Style: West Coast IPA
Alcohol: 0.5%
Everyone has to have an IPA – it’s the beer style that defined craft beer movements from the 90s onwards. Happily, the Nirvana IPA is very good! Bright body with biscuit and caramel flavors from Vienna and Munich malts, with a deep golden hue. Bittered with Mosaic, Nectaron, and Simcoe hops, the combination of which delivers a resinous and piney flavour that finishes with grapefruit overtones. Vegan and gluten free. Highly Recommended.
Beer Name: Cloudy Lemon Lager
Beer Style: Radler
Alcohol: 0.2%
A summertime classic, and and award-winner to boot. Radlers are a common lower alcohol option in Bavaria, where they typically mix helles with lemonade. Nirvana swaps out the normal helles for a ‘infiltered’ alcohol-free lager. Lighter carbonation that many of their other beers better suits the radler style. Vegan. Recommended.
Beer Name: Nirvana Nitro Stout
Beer Style: Dry Stout
Alcohol: 0.5%
This is not your father’s Guinness, or even his Guinness Zero. Smooth and creamy from the nitro carbonation, dark black in colour. Less head than you might expect, with notes of caramel and coffee throughout, although the body thins out a bit at the end. Bittered with Goldings to match the English/Irish style. Vegan and gluten free. Recommended.
Beer Name: Traditional Bavarian Hefeweizen
Beer Style: Hefeweizen (German Wheat Beer)
Alcohol: 0.3%
Wheat and banana dominated, just as it should be – about as authentically German as you can get. Naturally cloudy, with hints of clove. Refreshing and light enough for a Summer’s afternoon. Vegan. Recommended.
Originally Published in The American Magazine, Issue 808. Transcribed for web presentation. Copyright 2025 Travis Mooney, all rights reserved.